Return to Rome

I am back in the Colosseum, dry this time.

Easter weekend heralded a two-week vacation at NJC; I had the choice between taking some time to myself for the fortnight, or of travelling with the students on one of two compulsory trips. I opted to supervise the affectionately called "Gritaly" trip–a week in Italy followed by a week in Greece. It was a repeat excursion for me. Because I followed this itinerary last year, and wrote extensively about the trip, I have decided to write fewer blog posts this time around, with a focus on those places and experiences that were new to me in 2016. If you are curious about our visit to Rome last year, check out these two entries.

http://livingmydreaminbeautifulswitzerland.blogspot.ch/2015/04/rainy-rome.html
http://livingmydreaminbeautifulswitzerland.blogspot.ch/2015/04/sunny-rome.html

Many of our students at the first stop of our trip–the catacombs of San Callisto

Obviously, the first big difference was the group who were on the trip. There were forty-nine students and five supervisors this time around (Jen, Patti, Adam, Louise and me). Jen's thirteen-year old son, Jacob, also joined us, as did our social media intern, Kezia. Hence, there were 56 of us.

The brick facade of this church belies the wonders inside.

Before our first dinner in Rome, Patti agreed to join me as I visited a church near our hotel which I had not entered last year: the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. The plain brick exterior suggests a simple space, but upon entering the Basilica, we were impressed by the size and grandeur of the interior. In fact, this church was erected on the site of the Baths of Diocletian, the largest of the imperial baths. Here was a reminder of Rome's layered history, as first the centre of an Empire and later as the seat of Christianity.

The exterior of the Basilica, looking a lot like a Roman bathhouse

Inside the Basilica

After dinner, we took advantage of beautiful weather to walk with the students to the Colosseum to see it lit up at night. We all enjoyed posing in front of Rome's most iconic structure.

Alex, Ellis, Charlotte and Emma

On our second day, we followed our guides on a walking tour though the city.  I expected to retrace the same route as last year, and for the most part, we did, but there were a few twists this time around. Notably, we found the Spanish steps under renovation, while the Trevi fountain was (finally) fully restored. We may all hate seeing scaffolding on important sites but when the restoration is complete, the effect is spectacular.

A glass wall separates Adam from the Spanish Steps

The gorgeous Trevi Fountain, fully restored.

After the tour, the students dismissed, we sought out new places to visit. Patti, Louise, Adam, Kezia, Jen and her son, Jacob, and I headed first to the Castel Sant'Angelo, another site with important Roman and Christian associations. Built as a tomb for the Emperor Hadrian, it was later used as a prison for the Vatican. The bridge that leads to it, the Ponte Sant'Angelo, is particularly lovely, adorned as it is with marble statues of angels. It is very old as well, dating back to 134 AD.

In front of Castel Sant'Angelo

A view of the bridge

From there, we decided to follow the Tiber River toward the Trastevere district. Travel writer Rick Steves had recommended this neighbourhood, and so I was keen to see it. Louise also was eager to return to this, her favourite part of Rome.

Piazza di Santa Maria

Fountain in the square

We spent the majority of our time in the centre of the area, the Piazza di Santa Maria, where we enjoyed some gelato and explored the 12th Century church, the Basilica di Santa Maria. I was greatly impressed with the mosaics on its walls, reminiscent of Eastern European iconography.

The modest exterior of the Basilica. 

Mosaics inside the Basilica

Street market in Trastevere

Nearby, we found a street market where both Louise and I found earrings at bargain prices. Eventually, we headed back toward the river, and the island that lies within it. Despite having visited Rome twice previously, I had never seen the Tiber until this day. Can you imagine saying such a thing about Paris and the Seine? I was surprised at how little the river was used and how few people were enjoying its banks.

Ponte Cestio leads to Tiber Island

A quiet walkway on the banks of the Tiber

On the other side, we strolled past the ruins of Ancient Rome that we were scheduled to visit the next day, as we headed back to our hotel.

Ceiling of Chiesa Gesu e Maria

Basilica S Giacomo

The next morning, in our free time,  Kezia and I decided we would check out the shops while walking from the Piazza del Populo to the Colosseum along Rome's main street, the Via del Corso. This was really fun, as I found a fellow shopper who was also willing to pop into every church with me along the way. I find European churches beautiful, even those that are not top tourist attractions. That morning, I enjoyed the beautiful art on the ceiling of Chiesa de Gesu e Maria; the marble grandeur of the Basilica S Giacomo; the baroque style of Basilica Dei SS Ambrogio e Carlo; and the unusual dimensions and facade of the Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina. In short, I liked them all.

Basilica Dei SS Ambrogio e Carlo

Kezia enters Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina

In the early afternoon, we met with the rest of the group at the Colosseum for our guided tour of Ancient Rome. I had taken such a tour last year too, but due to a heavy downpour, it was greatly abbreviated. This time, although it rained again, we were able to complete the tour. We spent about an hour in the Colosseum, and then another three hours on the Palatine Hill and in the Forum.

The stadium of Domitian

On the Palatine Hill

What can I say about the extensive ruins in the Eternal City? There is such history there! I enjoyed them immensely, imagining the world of the Roman people 2000 years ago. I also loved the views over the city, as we climbed high above the Forum. Trees were in blossom which only added to the beauty of the scene.

Blooms and ruins

Looking down on the Forum

Four hours of listening to a guide took its toll on the students, however. It was hard work for all of us. They perked up a little when we arrived at the site of the Santa Maria Antiqua church which has recently been reopened to the public. This was a marvel, with its frescoes and mosaic floors. I loved it, but, as I have already indicated, I enjoy churches and ruins and this site had both.

Santa Maria Antiqua

Our last morning in Rome was spent at the Vatican. The tour was very much like the one we had last year. The wonders of the Vatican Museum never get old though. This time, I changed my focus a little. I found myself fascinated by the unique map room, and the 16th Century Flemish tapestries.

Our guide points out the Campania region of Italy where we will travel next. 

Beautiful tapestry in the Vatican Museum

This time around, too, I was able to see much more of the Papal Basilica St. Peter's since there was no Mass going on.  It is a magnificent building, even if it is always very crowded.

Inside St. Peter's

The Dome of St. Peter's

My visit was somewhat limited, however, as just before I entered the Basilica, a local pigeon decided to let go directly above me. Suddenly, my shirt and my jacket were covered in pigeon poo, an impressive amount for such a small creature. Fortunately, there was a washroom nearby and a nice Irish woman helped me clean up. This episode gave the students lots to laugh at; as for me, it is apparently good luck to be defecated on at the Vatican, so I am doubly blessed with good fortune.

Recently "blessed" by a pigeon.

By 1:30 that day, we boarded a bus to head for the next leg of our journey. I enjoyed Rome and look forward to returning to the Eternal City one day.

Marching

After my trip to Berlin, I filled my calendar with education, music and family, quite a variety of diversions to keep me busy until Easter.

Bill worked with other committee members to welcome us to La Côte International School

Students from the host school performed "Food. Glorious, Food" from Oliver. Delightful!

On Bill's invitation, I decided to attend the SGIS (Swiss Group of International Schools) conference in Lausanne with two other of my colleagues, Aaron and Sarah. It has been some time since I had attended an educational conference, and I did not know what to expect.

The topic of Friday's keynote address

Garfield Gini-Newman was a very informative and entertaining speaker.

The speakers come from the UK, the US and Canada. and were all very well qualified to speak about working with adolescents. I had two particular favourites: Rod Eastaway gave a delightful keynote address about making Math fun for all ages–I loved his approach; and Garfield Gini-Newman, a professor at U of T, my alma mater, gave us several very useful tips about the use of technology in the classroom in order to enhance learning.

Aaron and I at the Olympic Museum

Part of the colourful display promoting the upcoming Rio Olympic Games.

Being in Lausanne was a draw, too. On the Friday evening, we were treated to a delicious and plentiful buffet dinner at the Olympic Museum (with a free pass into the exhibits beforehand.) That was quite a feast.

Apéro at the Olympic Museum

Bill says "Santé" before dinner.

All in all, it was stimulating and satisfying to learn new tricks at the SGIS event. I really enjoyed myself. I will have to review my notes before the next staff meeting though, as I have been asked to share what I learned with my colleagues then.

Wine tasting on a boat

The following day, I made my way to the harbour in Neuchâtel for the annual wine sale sponsored by Coop. Every March, this local grocery chain rents space on a couple of boats and invites clients to come aboard to sample wines from all over the world. Adam joined me for this event and then we headed to the Temple du Bas for a Vivaldi Concert featuring a local choir and two soloists, as well as an orchestra.

Getting ready for the performance.

The following weekend, I was excited to greet my first guest since January, my niece, Laura. She brought beautiful weather with her as well, the best I had seen in some time. We had a great time together.

Laura's required pose in front of the Hotel du Peyrou

Of course, I showed her around the two places that all my visitors have seen: Neuchâtel and Bern, and we made sure to eat lots of delicious cuisine. Laura had to have some fondue, so we started with that on Friday evening at La Taverne Neuchâteloise.

Laura and the legs.

A beautiful day and new view of Bern

I have been to Bern so many times now that I thought there was nothing new to see, but on this occasion I found a square which afforded me a different angle on the Bundeshaus. It was very close to my new favourite restaurant there, Tibits. This a a paradise for food lovers, with an entirely vegetarian menu. We both loaded up our plates at the buffet!

Yummy Tibits!!

A little later, as we approached the Bärengraben, we saw a Canadian flag. Apparently, there was a six week Canadian festival in the city. In the old Tram Depot, Canadian beer could be sampled and well as Canadian cuisine. Laura and I decided to stay with local specialties instead. That evening, I took her to one of my favourite spots in Neuchâtel, Vio.

Lovely Laura in beautiful Bern

Canada weeks in Bern

On our final morning together, I thought Laura should ride a funicular so we chose one up to nearby Chaumont, a highly recommended trip that I had yet to experience. It was somewhat overcast in Neuchâtel that day, but just as I had been told many times, Chaumont was lovely and sunny. It was also snowy. Basically, we just went up and then down again, but we both enjoyed the ride.

Heading up the funicular to Chaumont.

The snow and sunshine at the top.

For our final meal together before Laura headed back to the UK, we chose a local crêpe place, Bach et Buck. The wailing baby in the restaurant did not get in the way of our enjoyment of our meal, thank goodness. Shortly thereafter, Laura was on her way home. I am so very pleased she made the effort to visit me.

My Sunday was not over, however. Patti and I had free tickets to another concert in the late afternoon, this time in Marin, a Neuchâtel suburb. I got lost finding the hall, but fortunately I got there in time to enjoy the young trio who performed so beautifully. The Swiss certainly enjoy classical music!

Patti and I on the steps of St Ursenkathedrale

The interior of the Jesuit Church in Solothurn. It had been under scaffolding on my first visit.

On Holy Thursday, our last day of teaching before Easter break, I accompanied Adam and Patti to Solothurn for yet another concert, a performance of the Messiah. We left as soon as we could after classes, because I wanted my colleagues to have sufficient time to explore this charming town. We had yet another beautiful day: spring was in the air.

A healthy and yummy winter salad in Solothurn

This was a perfect evening: we all loved the town (Patti says she would like to live there); we found a delightful place to eat (we had identical salads); and the concert was the best I had heard this year. I loved it!