Sunday, May 31, 2015

My Darling Daughters

At the same time, Pauline and Ron were exploring parts of Switzerland and Burgundy with us, our daughters, Katie and Jess, were beginning their European vacation in Paris. They had devised a plan that would have them spend several days in France, four days with us in Switzerland and nearly a week in Italy. So, a few days after one set of family visitors left, another set arrived.

Since their train pulled in late on a Thursday morning, I first showed the girls around the school before we went into the old town for lunch, stopping briefly for the requisite photo at the Hotel du Peyrou. We chose la Crêperie du Chateau, on Pauline and Ron's recommendation.
Posing at the Hotel du Peyrou
After the meal, while I returned to work, Bob took the girls to the castle and the church we had visited with our last guests less than a week beforehand. Interestingly, this time the tour included some rooms which Bob had not seen the first time, and excluded some of the ones he had. The castle is still used as government headquarters, so rooms that are open to tourists vary from day to day.
Everyone is inspired to take photos at the castle.
Afterwards, the three of them explored Neuchâtel a little, pausing for a photo in the English Gardens. Unfortunately, the weather was deteriorating at this point, with rain threatening, so they cut their walk short. For dinner that evening, we decided to go to a local Asian place near the school. Once in a while, we like to get away from local cuisine.

Katie and Jess in the English Gardens
The following day, May Day, was a holiday here in Switzerland, but as is common at NJC, there were day trips arranged for the students. Since Bob and I were committed to travel with a group to Gruyères, Katie and Jess chose to head to Geneva on their own.
The old League of Nations hall in Geneva
This was a very wet day, with heavy rains for much of the time. The girls wisely opted for inside locations: the Red Cross Museum and the United Nations buildings in Geneva. They enjoyed both places but they saw little else in the city - the weather just wasn't cooperating. Also not cooperating were the trains which, as a a result of a derailment earlier in the week, had to be diverted via Bern (and every station along the way). As a result, took close to triple the usual time getting back to Neuchâtel!
Fondue dinner at La Jura (for Katie and me, at least)
That evening, we celebrated Katie's birthday with cheese fondue at La Jura, one of the best traditional Swiss restaurants in town.
Bob and the girls at the Bundeshaus in Bern
Our best day together occurred on the Saturday in Bern. We have visited the city often, but never on a weekend, so it was a mild surprise to see the place buzzing with activity. Of course, we soon realized it was market day, with both a flea market and a food market set up in the centre of the city.
Jess took this shot from the tower of the Munster
The weather improved too (it couldn't have been much worse than the day before), so we were free to explore on foot. I was impressed when Jess took the initiative to climb the tower of the Bern Munster to get a view over the city. I resolve to the same some day! While she was up there, the rest of us were entertained by a quartet of costumed people dancing around the fountain nearby. They were being filmed, but we never discovered why.
Local entertainment
Later, we stopped on the bridge overlooking the River Aare, one of our favourite spots to pose, and climbed to the Rosengarten for another spectacular view of the city. This was my chance to see the parts of the garden that Pauline and Ron had visited the week before.
Katie and Jess with the River Aare in the background

We three in the garden
We always enjoy visiting Bern since it is quite compact and always lovely. Unfortunately, the Bern bears have been moved somewhere else for the time being, so Katie had to settle for a trick photo instead.
A bear climbs the tower of the Munster
That evening, we were invited, along with Terry, to a feast at Dan's. (Jen and Bill were in Canada at the time.) Katie and Dan had bonded on our trip to Istanbul in January, so he made a special effort for us. Each course was served alongside a different wine from Dan's extensive collection. Everything was absolutely delicious!
Katie's picture of Lucerne
On their last day in Switzerland, Katie and Jess headed to Lucerne for the day. Bob and I sent them on their way with a guide book and a few suggestions. The next morning, they boarded the train for the Italian leg of their European fortnight – their short stay with Mom and Dad was over.




Colour me Burgundy

As I mentioned in my last blog entry, Bob and I rented a car the weekend my sister and her husband visited us and drove to the Burgundy region of France in tandem with three of my colleagues, Jen, Terry and Dan. We had spent some time in this region some seven years ago, and were eager to return.
We were given an upgrade: an Audi Cabriolet - but we never let the top down. Too cold and wet.
Beaune market in the rain
The forecast had been for rain and that is what we got when we arrived in Beaune at about 11:00 a.m. on a Saturday. It was market day, so, as we always do when we cross the border, we all bought some groceries (French prices are much more reasonable than Swiss ones.) We headed off in different directions, with a plan to meet again in about an hour. During that time, Bob and I decided to slip into the Romanesque Basilique de Notre-Dame nearby. It has an unusual façade, but the highlights of this church were the 15th century tapestries on display in the choir area.
The Basilique de Notre-Dame
Tapestry in the church
When we drove through this town in 2008, Bob and I had noticed the roof of the Hotel Dieu but we had not visited the site then. This time, after lunch, we made a point to do so (as did Jen). The complex of buildings, located very near the market area, has a long history. Known also as the Hospices de Beaune, it was created in 1443 as an charitable almshouse, and remained a hospital until the 1970's.
Courtyard of the Hotel Dieu
The architecture of the place is remarkable for the typical Burgundian tiles on the roof, the dormer windows and the large "Room of the Poor, where the bedridden were housed. At one end of this chamber is a chapel so that the very ill could still attend Mass.
Canopied beds line the Room of the Poor.
There are other impressive features of this museum which documents the lives of the order of nuns who worked there as nurses, and the various medicines that were administered to the sick, as well as religious artifacts like a magnificent altarpiece. It was well worth a visit.
There are still nuns here but they they are not real.

Medicine?
I documented most of the rest of our day in Beaune in the last blog post with the exception of a lovely walk we took that evening to work off a fraction of our delicious dinner. By then the rain had stopped and Beaune was lit up. It is a very pleasant place at night.
The rear of the Basilique de Notre-Dame at night.
The next morning, at Dan's suggestion, we all drove to a castle nearby, the Château de Rochepot. Pauline, Ron, Bob and I opted to pay extra for a tour, while the others explored the grounds only. Photography was not permitted inside, so I have no pictures of the rooms on the tour; from our guide, we learned a lot about the efforts of the Carnot family to lovingly restore a near ruin to its former glory. This task was undertaken in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, so that the building is now a living museum of that era as well. The kitchen is particularly impressive, I recall.
The drawbridge at the entrance to the Château de Rochepot.
The grounds are lovely, too. We all climbed to the top of the tower where we could see a small village in the distance. Like the Hotel-Dieu in Beaune, the roof of the château is tiled Burgundian style, as is most evident in the photo below.
The view to the courtyard from the tower.

The view toward to tower
Our final destination of this whirlwind visit to Burgundy was its capital, Dijon. Bob and I had explored this lovely city in 2008, and we were eager to see it again. We arrived at lunch time on a Sunday, a very quiet time. The old city centre seemed nearly abandoned.
The fountain at  la Place de la Revolution with the Palaces in behind.
We could only stay an hour or two, but in that time, we saw many of the highlights. The Palaces and Estates of the Dukes of Burgundy which dominate La Place de la Revolution are monuments to the great importance of this city in its heyday, from the 11th to the 15th century, although the buildings which dominate the square were erected in the 17th and 18th centuries.. There are also two notable churches in the old part of the city, both of which are interesting monuments: the cathedral of Notre-Dame and l'Eglise Saint-Michel.
L'Eglise de Saint Michel
Inside the Rude Gallery
Nearby, in the François Rude gallery, we were very impressed by the large sculpture created by the man whose works adorn the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. He is a Dijon native. Also native to the city, is its eponymous mustard. We all bought some of this condiment which now comes in many varieties.
The main square in Dijon. The mustard store was on the right, just out of the picture.
In all, we spent too little time in Dijon and in Burgundy, but I have since discovered that I can get there by train in just over two hours, so a return visit is in my plans.


Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Family Fun

In late April and early May, I had visitors! In spite of the wonderful travel experiences I have had (and for which I am extremely grateful), there is nothing like seeing family members face to face. Our first couple of guests were my sister, Pauline, and her husband, Ron, who spent a week with us.
The swans came out to welcome Pauline and Ron to Neuchâtel.
They told us from the beginning that they would put themselves at our mercy - that Bob and I could choose how they should spend their time. They may have regretted this offer after the 100th pose for Bob's camera, but they were good sports and keen to learn about our lives over here.
We got a window seat at Les Brasseurs
On the day of their arrival, after I finished work, we went for a walk into town. It was a beautiful day to stroll by the lake, after which we stopped for a beer at Les Brasseurs, a local watering hole.  That evening they joined us at Le Cerf for pub trivia, but not before I had shown them Place des Halles, one of the most beautiful spots in Neuchâtel. Later in the week, we would have dinner there.
Place des Halles
Pauline exploring the Geneva brocante
Over the next two days, Bob served as their tour guide, first in Geneva, and then in Bern. Geneva had great drawing power for all three of them because they share an interest in antiques and collectibles, and there happened to be a "brocante" that day. They also made time to visit the old part of the city – all while I taught my classes. Their photos of Geneva made we realize that I am overdue for a trip to a place I have spent too little time in so far.

In front of the Reformation Wall
Posing in front of le jet d'eau, a Geneva landmark
 In Bern the next day, Bob took Pauline and Ron to our favourite haunts, and a few places I had yet to visit. I think he wore them out, but I know they liked the city very much. As an avid gardener, Pauline was particularly impressed by the Rosengarten, with many flowers in full bloom, though no roses yet.
The Rosengarten in Bern

In front of Bern's Rathaus.
On both days, in spite of their tiring schedules, our visitors made us dinner. I was treated to plates of cheese and home-cooked meals every evening. How lovely.
This is nice to come home to after work.
The four of us stop at the Hotel de Peyrou for a group photo.
On our way up the the castle
As is often case when visitors come, Bob and I explored new territory in our home town. Such was the case on Friday, when over lunch and a prep period, I was able to join the others for a visit to the Collegial Church and the Castle of Neuchâtel, perched on a hill above the old town. We were fortunate that our arrival coincided with a free tour of the site, given by a very personable guide.
The collegial church
The castle courtyard with a modern sculpture in its centre.
 I learned a great deal that day about the town and the canton in which I reside. Swiss history has been a puzzle to me which I came closer to solving that day. In one room, our guide pointed out the coats of arms of all those who have ruled over the city, many of them illegitimate children of Dukes and Kings. In another chamber, the Canton's ruling body meets regularly to pass local laws. In this participatory democracy, anyone can take part in these gatherings.

This hall in the castle is used today as a courtroom.
That afternoon, Pauline and Ron were left to their own devices to explore Neuchâtel. They roamed around the old town, and visited the local casino (another spot I have yet to explore). After work, Bob and I picked up a rental car and drove about thirty minutes away to Merton, another lovely old town on a lake. Pauline and I enjoyed our time shopping there. Then we joined Dan and Terry for dinner at Place des Halles - a first time there for me.
In Merton's arcaded shops, Pauline found herself a very cute top.
Part of the market was indoors, thank goodness
On Saturday, seven of us headed across the French border to Burgundy for an overnight stay. The small city of Beaune is one of Dan's favourite destinations on a Saturday morning since the market there is very good. Unfortunately, on this day, the weather turned bad and the rain put a damper on the market - literally and figuratively.
Jewelry shopping in Beaune
Still, the town had lots to offer our guests: Pauline and I did some shopping, while Ron joined the other men for a wine tour at a vineyard nearby. That evening, we enjoyed a delectable meal at a local restaurant, three courses of heaven. I think Pauline and Ron were glad we took them to France - just for the food.

Ron and Terry at the winery
Out for dinner in Beaune. A great meal!
On the way home on Sunday, we stopped in Dijon for lunch and a quick look around. I will describe this part of France more thoroughly in my next blog post. This one belongs to family after all, but what my guests discovered is that family over here often includes my colleagues.

Bob took this photo of six of us in Dijon
Monday was Pauline and Ron's last day with us, a day to do as they pleased, which was to meander along the streets of the town. They enjoyed Neuchâtel. It is small enough to navigate easily but large enough to offer a variety of sights to see.

On their final evening, in the pouring rain, we took a bus up to a fondue place above the town, Pinte Pierre-à-Bot.  Our feet got soaked walking from the bus stop but the cheese warmed us up. Pauline and Ron discovered that potatoes are very good in a fondue, and that the traditional cheese fondue is tastier than the tomato one - at least, that was the case at this restaurant.

The next morning, our guests were off to Zurich, where rain prevented them from seeing much of the city before they returned home.

Pauline and Ron were delightful guests. There is nothing like having family with you; being away from my sisters and my children has made me appreciate them that much more. So, here's a shout out to my other family members - come on over!!






Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Sun Kissed Santorini

Santorini. The word alone conjures up images of utopia. We were only there for about six hours, but they were among my favourite moments this year. The island is enticing to a photographer - so very beautiful! We took so many photos that day, that I have decided to give this little island jaunt its own blog post.
A view of Oia
Standing by the water
Santorini is white upon white with many, many blues. The buildings which seem to hang precariously on the edge of the cliffs, appear uniformly whitewashed and pristine. The shock of so much whiteness is in stark contrast to the Mediterranean waters below. Private chapels are domed in another shade of blue. And once in a while, butter yellow buildings add to the warmth of the scene.
Two of the little chapels with their blue domes.
Boarding the hydrofoil
We started our day on Crete, where we were bused from our resort to the Heraklion harbour. A speedy hydrofoil transported us to Santorini in a couple of hours, so that by 10:00 a.m. or so, we were ashore again in another paradise.
These are grape vines on what looks like the surface of the moon.
We were immediately ushered onto another bus which ascended to the top of this very hilly island. On the way, we heard about the unique local wine industry where the vines are grown in spirals and the product is quite sweet. At the end of our day, our guide gave us a bottle of this wine to bring home with us. Quite tasty.
The donkeys are led down the steps for their next journey up.
I named my donkey Benny - because he had jets.
Having arrived at the top of the island, we descended again on a funicular. At the bottom, we had an appointment with 46 donkeys. Riding on my donkey was great fun. At first he appeared sluggish and then suddenly, he decided to hurry past the others ahead of him, so that in my little group, we were first to the top.
Melanie captured this picture of us. I really like it. By the way, my shirt, purchased in Athens, was inspired by Santorini.
Next, our group travelled the length of the island to the picturesque village of Oia. As it was mid-day, we sought out a table with a view for lunch. Surely, we were given the best perspective possible from a restaurant rooftop that overlooked parts of the town, as well as the shores below us.
Our lunch location - not bad.
The view from the restaurant
My moussaka was delicious, but the highlight of the meal occurred when I spotted a bride and groom sitting upon one of the rooftops in the distance. Very close by, on another rooftop, perched a photographer who kept changing angles to get the most out his shoot. Apparently, this sort of thing is very common on Santorini.
The wedding shoot
Oia is small but it is chock full of stunning vistas and charming shops and restaurants.I LOVED being there, walking the winding pathways to see its beauty from various angles. The photos I have attached don't fully capture its glory. Between us, Bob and I took hundreds of shots. As usual, his are better than mine.
Oia cathedral

Oia from another angle
So gorgeous!!
Too soon, we returned to the bus and made one last stop on our way to the harbour. From this location (Thira) high above the water, we took a group shot.
One happy group
So long Santorini
Then it was time to board the hydrofoil and return to Crete. If I return to Santorini someday, there is a chair waiting for me.
Imagine me here.