Annecy Odyssey

The wonderful Dan Martin announced at the end of our staff meetings that he planned to head to somewhere in France for a couple of days on the weekend and had room for three passengers. Terry and I were the lucky ones to go, and there was room for Bob, too!

We got away just after 14:00 on Friday afternoon and headed towards the Alps, some 35 kilometres south of Geneva. Dan had managed to get us a great deal at an Ibis just outside of town, so we checked in there first before heading into Annecy, one of his favourite places to visit.

The dark clouds on Friday evening did not detract from lovely Annecy.

Annecy is a popular vacation spot because of its setting on a small mountain fed lake and its "charme". The town is defined by its canals, which has earned it the nickname of The Alpine Venezia. Bridges zigzag across these narrow waterways while cafés and shops are aligned alongside them. To add to the beauty of the place, flower boxes are everywhere, adorning the bridges, walkways and buildings in the town.

A refreshment break with Dan and Terry.

On Friday night, the skies were threatening when we first arrived and then they opened up for a couple of hours. No problem. We were able to stay dry under vaulted walkways. I think I enjoyed this part of the day most since we traveled from shop to shop to avoid getting wet.

Shopping with my new colleagues

Palais de l'Isle in the centre of the Thiou canal

After dinner, we emerged from the restaurant to clear skies and a pleasant evening, a good sign for the next day.

The market in one of the town squares

Saturday turned out to be ideal, weather-wise. We decided to go our separate ways until lunch. While Terry took a walk along the lake, Dan, Bob and I wandered among the wares being sold in the square. On the last Saturday of each month, Annecy holds a large "brocante" (Collectibles) market, a strong selling point of the place for Bob.  I came upon a group of Brits filming a a show of some kind. When I asked what was going on, the host grabbed me and we posed for this selfie together. I have since learned that he is Mark Franks who has made his name in talk shows, but is also an expert in antiques. His show is on Channel 4 and is called The French Collection.

Best selfie ever

I also visited the Palais de l'Isle, the most unique building in the town. It is shaped like a boat and lies in the middle of a canal. A palace when first erected in 1132, it has also been a courthouse, a mint, and most recently, during the German occupation of France, a jail. There was lots of time to explore Annecy before lunch, so Bob and I took many pictures.

The Palais de l'Isle again.

The Cathedral of Saint-Pierre

At lunch, Terry, Dan and I tried a local specialty, a tartiflette, which is a cheese and potato casserole topped with Reblochon cheese. Yum!

Happy couple on a beautiful day

Afterwards, we strolled along the lakeside before heading home. This was a perfect day to enjoy the water and the mountains in the distance.

Lake Annecy in the French Alps

Thanks, Dan, for taking us to this place. We were truly enchantés.

Chez Moi

This week, starting Wednesday I have (finally) begun my new life in Neuchâtel, that of a teacher of English and Drama. Well, I haven't actually done any teaching yet, but I have been at the school for the past three days. And for you non-teachers out there, that is still working.

This year, I am one of five new teachers joining the staff at Neuchâtel Junior College, an unusually large turnover in this small school. In fact, the newcomers outnumber the returning teaching staff, as there are only nine of us all together. We "newbies" have a lot to learn; this week's meetings are invaluable information sessions for us.

Dan and Paul on a break during a staff meeting.

We have spent about nine hours in staff meetings, covering a variety of topics: we have introduced ourselves, of course; we have learned what deductions to expect from our paycheques; we are being prepped to take questions from our students about the University application process for Canadian, American and British schools; we are planning next week's orientation week upon the students' arrival; we are learning the pros and cons of AP examinations; in short, over a few days, we are cramming in information that puts us one step ahead of our students - we hope.

My view

When we haven't been in meetings together, we have worked individually in our classrooms, familiarizing ourselves with our workplaces. I love my classroom. The first thing I noticed when I walked in was how much light gets in. There are windows on two sides; facing south, the large ones, with slatted blinds, look out over the town below, Lake Neuchâtel beyond, and in the distance, the Alps. There is a smaller set of windows on the upper wall opposite, that lets in light from the north.

The green blackboard at the front of the room. I like the little music stands too.

The room is well organized and well equipped. I have two blackboards to use on days when I teach "old school", or I can use my laptop to interface with the digital projector on the ceiling and show a power-point presentation. In one cupboard, I have office supplies, including a Swiss style two-hole punch.

My supply cupboard

I have been very spoiled by Jocelyn, my predecessor. She has left me binders full of resources and notes so that I have lots to work with for all three of my courses. In the filing cabinets in the corner, I have a collection of scripts for Drama and NESDA, a performance club for which I will be a staff advisor.

Files full of drama resources

The beautiful glass cupboards at the back of the room are filled with standard English teacher fare such as The Norton Anthology, but also with modern novels, some of which I have not yet read. I have my Kobo with me here but I look forward to picking up a real book from this collection just for the feel of it.

My favourite part: the gorgeous glass cupboards

In the middle of the room are tables and chairs for my students. This selection of furniture will allow me many options for group work or presentations. My desk is in a corner, facing away from the room rather than towards it. I may have to turn it around, since, contrary to rumour, I really do not have eyes in the back of my head.

Where the students will be.

My desk

My room will be an oasis for part of every day, and then it will be transformed by youthful energy into something else, a hub of learning I expect.

Lovely Lucerne

Usually, after a busy two week vacation, I look forward to returning to my "normal" life, whatever that may be. However, our French vacation did not lead to a relaxing weekend in Neuchâtel. Instead, Bob and I went away for about 48 hours, this time to Lucerne.

The timing of this trip was dictated by the Lucerne Summer Festival, a series of concerts in the city. I had discovered through Facebook, that a former student of ours, Scott Reynolds, would be performing in this prestigious event. He had provided me with a number of potential dates when he would be on stage, but the only one we could make was August 23rd.

Scott had lunch with us the day after his performance. 

So on Saturday morning, a short 12 hours after we had arrived home, we were at the train station on our way to Lucerne. We had chosen to attend the sold-out opening performance of the Lucerne Festival Academy Orchestra, conducted by Simon Rattle, one of the premier conductors in the world. This was a wonderful experience, with young musicians of the highest quality performing very sophisticated and avant-garde works. One of the pieces was premiered during the evening, while another featured 80 performers, 40 singers paired with 40 instrumentalists, a most unusual formation. (Scott was lead trumpet for this part of the performance, quite an accomplishment for a 24-year old.) We have never heard more difficult music. The next day, over lunch, Scott told us that this had been the greatest challenge in his musical career. He was very proud to have been selected for the orchestra and to have worked with the great maestro, Simon Rattle.

The orchestra members take their seats

The view toward the lake and the esplanade from the KKL Luzern concert hall.

When planning this trip, we had decided to spend two nights in Lucerne, so that we could have time to see the city thoroughly. Our stay allowed us to wander the streets of the old town, climb up to the ramparts, cross the river multiple times, and wander along the lakefront. This was a leisurely visit. I was particularly pleased to visit the Lion Monument, the Museum of Transport, and to take a one-hour cruise on the lake on our final morning.

Rathaus (Ton Hall) and swans on Reuss River

The iconic Chapel Bridge, parts of which have been restored after a fire in 1993

A view of Lucerne from the ramparts

Museggmauer Musegg Wall - and bull.

The Lion Monument

Massive tunnel boring wheel in front of the Swiss Museum of Transport.

The city is beautiful, so I will let the photos tell the story. We had visited it in our twenties, many years ago. It was fun to see it again, so many years later, Still the highlight of these past few days was the concert on the first night. So glad we were able to go.

On the boat cruise on Lake Lucerne

La Route du Vin

Trivia fact of the day: France is the most visited country in the world, ahead of the U.S.A and Spain. Is there any wonder why?

Friday morning on the last day of our French vacation, we left Strasbourg early so that we could see as much as we could of the Alsace wine route before we had to return our hired car.

This wine route is a beautiful drive. The towns are very picturesque, with enticing shops, and the scenery between stops is lovely - rolling hills full of vineyards. We managed to visit five of the recommended stops before 14:00 when we had to head for the main highway and home.

Our first destination was Molsheim toward the north end of the route. While Bob took a couple of photos, I popped into Tourist Information to ask a few questions about the region. When the young woman asked me what French departement I was from, and I explained that I was Canadian, she told me that I did not sound Québecoise. My accent was gentler than that. My French must be improving.

Quiet square in Molsheim

Obernai was next. We discovered that parking was free for the first 20 minutes, so we gave ourselves about that long to explore. I found my way to a shop where there was a good sale, while Bob took more photos.

There was no one on the tourist train in Obernai - yet

Above the town of Dambach-la-Ville , we saw a lovely church with views over the vineyards and the community below. So pretty!

Vineyards and Dambach-la-Ville from the church above town

Ribeauvillé

We arrived at Ribeauvillé at lunchtime and soon found ourselves a couple of sandwiches to take out. A few kilometres further along the route, we stopped at Riquewihr, one of "les Plus Beaux Villages de France". We almost drove around the village and left since there appeared to be no parking spots anywhere. However, at the last moment, we found a place. After all that effort, we decided to have a good look at the village, making it our last tourist stop of the day.

Half-timbered houses in Riquewihr

The clock tower in Riquewihr

Another street view in Riquewihr

Just after 14:00, we headed back to Neuchâtel on the fastest route our ancient GPS could suggest. All went well, until we hit Biel, Switzerland. Traffic there was so slow that we lost a lot of time. We were on a tight schedule since we had to return the car to France that evening, but wanted to drop off all our purchases at our apartment beforehand. By the way, in case you are wondering why we did not simply rent a car in Switzerland, the answer is simple. The cost of car hire there is double that in France.

In spite of the delay, we thought we had enough time to get to Pontarlier, France before the EuropCar dealer closed at 18:30. We had an hour and a quarter to travel what Google Maps suggested would take 56 minutes. It turns out there was a detour through the mountains that added another 25 minutes to our drive, so were too late. The dealership was in the middle of nowhere, and we could find no drop-box to return the car key, so we took a leap of faith and left it with a woman in the frozen food shop next door. (I called EuropCar the next morning, and she had followed through, returning the car key for us.) There was also nowhere to eat nearby except a Cafeteria style place across the road at a grocery store. There, we had by far, the worst meal we ate in France: cold and overcooked green beans, with acceptable meat and rice, covered by a mystery sauce. Never mind: it filled a hole.

Our adventure was not over yet, however. We still had to get to the train station in time for the 21:08 train to Neuchâtel, the last of the day. The taxi we called did not show up in good enough time, so we hoofed it three kilometres. Thank god the cafeteria had free WiFi so we could work out a route!

Bob hurrying to the train station in Pontarlier

Fortunately, we made it, bought our tickets and stood waiting on the platform with one other passenger, also a Neuchâtel resident. She and I ended up in conversation, although it was mainly one-sided. She was a woman with sad stories to tell, one after another - and she told them at length, in French, with a German accent. Then, she sat on the train near us and told me more. Bob is not conversant in French so the listening was all mine.

Talking on the platform in Pontarlier

At about 22:00, we pulled into Neuchâtel after a very long day. Our French vacation was over and we were glad to be "home".

Vive la différence

Trivia fact of the day: La Petite France, a charming section of Strasbourg, has an interesting history. The name originated in the 16th century when veterans from the battles with Italy were quarantined here because they had venereal disease. Since locals blamed the French for the disease, "la Petite France" became a nickname for syphilis.

Lunch in La Petite France

On Wednesday morning, we decided to see a bit more of Troyes before heading out. Of course, we chose the cathedral. I often wonder what a trip to Europe would be without monarchs and religion. This one had an interesting façade. Parts of it had been cleaned and looked brand new, while others wore the marks of years of wear and tear. I wonder if the city ran out of money to complete the job. In the interior were beautiful stained-glass windows, inside a soaring apse, a typical feature of gothic churches.

Bob takes a picture of me taking a picture of the cathedral.

Spectacular stained-glass windows in the cathedral at Troyes

Next it was time for an excursion to an outlet mall just outside of Troyes - from the sublime to the ridiculous, I know. The MacArthur Glen Outlet is a shopping mecca for French folks looking for a bargain. Designer duds listed at 800 Euros can be purchased here for a mere 550 Euros. I wanted to avoid those shops, but still seek out French designs, so I checked in at the Help Desk first and asked for guidance about which stores to enter. I marked the affordable establishments on my visitor's map and off I went. I have no idea where Bob went during the time I shopped. I stayed focused on the plan and it worked very well since we both finished our trip around the mall at about the same time. The big difference was that I left carrying several bags of lovely things - all bargains, and Bob left with a bag of Lindt chocolates.

Planning my visit at MacGregor Glen Outlet Mall.

There are fewer tourist attractions in this part of France, so we travelled a fair distance before stopping at Toul in Lorraine. Again, the main attraction is a cathedral, another one well worth visiting. Bob loved the number of ancient gravestones in the floor of the church while I enjoyed the atmosphere of the place since someone had put on a recording of beautiful religious music. Just after I arrived, Panis Angelicus was playing and I was transported.

The cloister at Toul

Next, we made a stop at Nancy to see the famous Place Stanislas. It rained on the way there but the skies cleared just as we arrived in the city. This square is large and very ornate, with grand buildings all around, and gilded gates, light fixtures and lamp-posts.

Gilded lamppost and gate at Place Stanislas 

Place Stanislas. The statue is of the man it is named after: Stanislaw  Leszczynski, former king of Poland.

We arrived rather late to our destination, the beautiful city of Strasbourg on the German border. This very cosmopolitan city is the site of the E.U. Parliament. It feels both German and French. On the way home from dinner, we happened upon a light and sound show on the façade of the cathedral. It was difficult to capture this experience in a photo, but I tried anyway.

The image is blurry because it is constantly changing

Thursday was spent entirely in Strasbourg. This a a great place, with lots to see and do. We spent much of our day following a walking tour of the central part of the city. The first site we visited was the magnificent Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg. It is unlike anything we have seen previously. Inside, there are several features that are particularly notable: the suspended organ, the Astronomical Clock, the Pillar of Angels, and the stone pulpit. The stained-glass windows are lovely as well. The façade is like lace, it is so elaborate. The photos do not do it justice.

The wise and foolish virgins on the right portal.

L'Horloge Astronomique (The Astronomical Clock)

Our Lady of Strasbourg Cathedral

The Ill River often featured during our walk; we crossed it several times, or strolled alongside its banks. In "La Petite France", a charming quarter, the river has three branches and locks to bring boats through. Later in the day, we took one these boats in order to see the city from a different point of view. It was a relaxing way to end our day - and our French vacation which will draw to a close tomorrow.

One of the medieval towers on the covered bridge over the Ill, as viewed from the top of Barrage Vauban

Two medieval towers late in the day, from the boat

Another highlight of our day was a visit to Saint-Pierre-le-Jeune Church, with its many frescoes that were uncovered during restorations. We loved all the colours on the walls.

Frescoes in Saint-Pierre-le-Jeune

Further afield, on the boat trip, we saw several of the buildings erected for the European Union. Their modern glass and metal fabric stand in great contrast to the half timbered homes and dormer windows in the old city where we had spent much of the day. By the way, this is "la différence" in the title of the blog. France is very different in its eastern part, architecturally. There are few colourful shutters on buildings now; rather, the half-timbered style dominates.

EU court building

Strasbourg in the evening.

After the boat tour, we took in the city one last time, before returning to our hotel for the night. We will be sorry to leave tomorrow, but we will be back.